Average Labour Cost/Price to Tile a Wall





To clarify the following prices it is recommended that you read the article in the INFORMATION box below the PRICES…


(These prices are based on a tradesman’s rate of £150.00 per day and a labourer if required at £100.00 per day. This includes the cost of buying and collecting any materials, dumping any waste if necessary and any incidental materials they will need. The minimum price will usually be for a half day)



How Much Does it Cost to Tile a Wall?


wall tiling


With small jobs, especially ones in confined spaces (your bathroom), tilers usually charge by the day and as we’ve said before, the price should include adhesive and grout.

Each price is for his labour, adhesive and grout. No tiles are included.

Lets assume a 8’ x 6’ bathroom, with one window reveal, walls ready for tiling, with the bath etc in situ, to be tiled in 8” (200mm) square tiling.


Job 1
Tile the bathroom, floor to ceiling, apply grout, then silicone around the bath.

This will take 2 blokes 2 days plus their materials…………
£600.00

Job 2
Half tile the above, with floor to ceiling tiles around the bath only.

This will take 1.5 days plus his materials……….
£435.00



Job 3
You are either completely ham fisted or just plain lazy. You want him to turn up and tile a small splash back above a hand basin.

He will charge half a day plus his materials ……..
£100.00



Job 4
We’re in the kitchen now. You want him to tile between your kitchen work surface and the wall cabinets above, using 6” (150mm x 150mm) tiles, along one 8’ (2400mm) wall, with two electrical sockets to take off and replace

This is a nice leisurely day for one man plus a small amount of materials……..£180.00



Job 5
Same area of kitchen but with 1’ (25mm) mosaic tiles that come on a 12” (300mm) backing mesh which are a nightmare to put on.

This is fiddly work, he will charge you for 1.5 days plus his materials……
£275.00



The previous jobs were quite small and reasonably fiddly. Not all jobs are like that of course, you may be fabulously wealthy and want your Olympic swimming pool tiled, so for you, the following guide may help. It’s for bigger jobs where he can just get on with tiling, without lots of corners and windows etc. interrupting his flow.

The following prices are for labour with adhesive and grout included.



Ceramic Tiles


Fixing 100mm x any size tiles £35/m2
Fixing 150mm x any size tiles £35/m2
Fixing 200mm x any size tiles £30/m2
Fixing 300mm x any size tiles £25/m2
Fixing 400mm x any size tiles £25/m2
Ceramic skirting/dado £4/m
Mitred corners @ 45 degrees £25/m
Silicone sealing (linear metre) £4/m



Marble, Granite, Natural Stone, Slate, Tiles


Fixing 100mm x any size tiles £50/m2
Fixing 150mm x any size tiles £47/m2
Fixing 200mm x any size tiles £45/m2
Fixing 300mm x any size ceramic tiles £43/m2
Fixing 400mm x any size ceramic tiles £40/m2
Marble, Granite, Natural Stone, Slate skirting £6/m
Mitred corners @ 45 degrees £25/m
Silicone sealing £4.50/m



Mosaic Tiles


Fixing 25mm x 25mm paper-faced glass mosaic tiles £60/m2
Fixing 25mm x 25 mm mesh back mosaic tiles £50/m2
Fixing mesh back travertine mosaic £50/m2
Mitred corners @ 45 degrees – travertine £40/m
Silicone sealing £4.50/m







For your must-see guide to Tradesmen's Rates please click on the map…

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A Price Guide and Information Sheet on Tiling Walls



information
If you want the tiler to be your best friend, supply him with 8”x 8” (200mm x 200mm) white tiles.

Essentially, the bigger, the smaller, the shinier, the more patterned, the more contoured the tiles are, the more he will start growling. (Ask for them to be put on in a diamond pattern if you want to see a grown man cry). But hey, it’s your bathroom, you can have what the heck you like and what can he do about it. Well, you know the answer to that, don’t you? And so does your wallet.

Do all your research in tile shops before you call him in. Have all the information about the tiles you want before he gets there. He can’t quote if he doesn’t know what he’s putting on the wall.

Ideally before you call him in, the walls should be flat and complete. If you’ve just had a
new bathroom fitted the old tiles should be off the wall and the walls made good for tiling anyway. (In this case, why isn’t the bathroom fitter doing the tiling)?

Just who orders and pays for the tiles is important. If
you do it and there’s a problem, it will be your fault. By far the best solution is to call him in when you know exactly what you want and have confirmed with a tile shop that they are available.

Tell him to quote for
supplying and fixing and make sure his quote states the tiles you want from the supplier you have chosen. Let him measure up, let him buy the tiles. Any problem will then be his to solve.

However, when you are out looking for tiles there are a few things to remember.

If you only want to tile “half way” up some of the walls, what do you want the top edge to look like. This can be finished in 4 ways.

The tiles you choose
may come with one glazed edge specifically for this situation (and also for tiling into window reveals). This is fine.

A plastic rounded edging strip can be fitted as the tiles are positioned. This is very common. (common as in widespread, not common as in “Eastenders”).

“Dado” tiles can be fitted. It is unlikely though, that these will be “matched” to the main wall tiles you have chosen, so you must check very carefully that the length of the dado tiles you want matches exactly that of the main ones. If they are a fraction shorter that can be sorted out with the grout but if they are just that bit longer, the cumulative result will be horrid. If they are a lot longer though and the wall length is quite short, then that will be o.k.

The same situation will apply if you want to put “odd” tiles in here and there or a complete course of different tiles to break up a white tile wall for instance.

Find out about availability of all the (different) tiles you have chosen. If they are going to take 12 weeks to arrive from Spain you may have to think again.

Check that when they
are available, that the batch numbers on every box will be/are the same. If the batch numbers differ so will the shade of the tile and that will show on the wall.

Sealing joints where tiles meet the top edge of a bath or shower tray etc. is vital. Under no circumstances let the tiler use a rubber strip of any kind. There is only one substance to use and that’s the most expensive, white, mould resistant, sanitary silicone available. If he spends an hour sticking low adhesion masking tape on each side of every joint all round the room, he can silicone the lot in 5 minutes, whiz off the tape and the job will look lovely.

Also, if the room has just been created, i.e. you have had an en suite made in the corner of a bedroom, then the new wall will be timber studding and it
will eventually move a fraction as everything dries out. Get the tiler to silicone the vertical (usually internal corner) joint between the new and existing walls, not grout it. The silicone will move as the wall does and it won’t crack.

If a
shower cubicle is being fitted, the relevant tiling should be completed before the cubicle is fitted. It’s courting potential leaks and it’s a damn site more difficult, if he tiles after it’s fitted. It also leads to a better job if he tiles before fitting the basin and cistern as well.


REMEMBER, his quotation or price per metre should include the cost of the adhesive and grout as well as the labour cost. THIS IS STANDARD.


Questions to ask the tiler during his quotation visit.



The next 2 questions will not be relevant in all cases.

Is it possible to tile over the top of the existing tiles?
Well, it is possible in certain situations, (over a wall of beautifully flat 1930 tiles possibly) but everything will be left too thick and it wont be a “proper job” will it?

It is possible to plaster over tiles and start again but then, only in certain situations.


Will he remove the old tiles and make good the walls for the new ones?
Can he plaster sufficiently well if there’s a “large” area to make good?

Who is going to order the tiles and pay for them?
If it’s you, what about edge trims, dado’s etc. Do you assume he is providing the adhesive and grout? Find out now!

Will he collect the tiles etc. from the shop if you have ordered and paid for them?
He can buy all the grout and adhesive at the same time.

How will he deal with the fact that he will ruin the bath when he drops his hammer into it?
Has he insurance?

How will he create right angles into window reveals etc?
He can use special plastic corner beads or overlap the tiles but some tiles don’t have a glazed edge suitable for overlapping and you don’t want to be looking at their red clay edges for the next 20 years.

Does he know how to plan out for tiling?
Ten minutes thinking at the beginning can mean the difference between a lovely symmetrical job and the right mess you would make of it! You will have to think of a diplomatic approach here. I suggest making yourself sound like a complete buffoon and tell him you tried to tile at you last house and never even considered how vitally important the placing of the first tile can be, while looking him straight in the eye. He’ll work it out!

Should you use a coloured grout?
NO!
Unless you have stone lions on either side of your ludicrously incongruous ornamental gates, a huge red American pickup, a lamppost in your front garden, stone cladding and a Father Christmas still fixed to the top of your porch. Oh… and a 4 foot high ceramic leopard sitting behind the front door. If you have
all these things, then you can slap any colour grout in that you like, try bronze, it’ll look lovely!




A-Z of Job Pricing