Average Labour Cost/Price to Fit/Hang New Doors
To clarify the following prices it is recommended that you read the article in the INFORMATION box below the PRICES…
(These prices are based on a tradesman’s rate of £150.00 per day and a labourer if required at £100.00 per day. This includes the cost of buying and collecting any materials, dumping any waste if necessary and any incidental materials they will need. The minimum price will usually be for a half day)
How Much Does it Cost To Hang a Door?
You’ve got the door, hinges, lock and handle, you just want him to turn up and hang it.
Simple, he will charge half a day:
If you want the 3 hall doors hanging, it will take him a day:
Seven new interior doors, (off the hallway and landing), with no glass, all to be left for painting by you. Each will have a short catch and handle. He will collect the doors and tip the old ones. You will have bought all the furniture and hinges.
His main concern will be where to do all the planing down to make them fit. The best/cleanest place is outside the front door but this means a lot of coming and going (possibly 3 times for each door) and four of them are upstairs. He may have to keep covering his tools every time he comes inside (rain and/or villains). All this takes time, so does cleaning up the shavings, which might be all over the street by 5 o’clock.
(See…. you never thought of any of this did you)?
This will take one man 3 days. Then he must tip the old doors, call it 3.5 days
7 Doors £450, Furniture £125, Tipping £30, Labour £560:
You want the hardwood “Grange over Sands” front door, with three little panes of glass at the top (alas, all of them “bullseye”), these come with the door.
It is to have a “Yale” with a puller, a morticed deadlock, a letterbox with integral knocker, an internal chain and three good quality hinges.
The joiner will give it the first coat of varnish all round before he goes. You will apply the other 2 coats yourself (yeh right)! You will be buying everything except the putty. He will collect the new door and tip the old one.
It will take him a day to do everything, but he will have to collect the door the night before and go to the tip the next day so 1.5 days at £150.00 per day.
Door £150, Furniture and varnish £100, Putty and tipping £25,
(Now re read the first paragraph)!
Your front door is sticking at the bottom so it needs to come off to be shaved then returned.
He will charge half a day, that’s…
Sounds like a lot, but you pay your solicitor that much just for greeting you and showing you to his office!
A Guide and Information Sheet to the Cost of Fitting Doors
My advice is if you change one you should change them all, so they match.
That means the furniture as well.
Also think about the way they open. Do some annoy you, should they have always opened the other way? If you do change the “hang” though, will you still be able to reach the light switch?
Once again you should choose the door and furniture (and glass) first.
The rule on safety glass is vital here, as you are more likely to have a fully glazed internal door.
Internal doors don’t usually lock but they do have the “catch”. This used to be quite a large morticed affair so knobs were possible.
Nowadays, you can get short 2” (50mm) ones. These work just as well and cost virtually nothing BUT the hole for the knob/handle is very near the door edge.
This doesn’t matter if a handle is fitted because this is designed to keep your hand away from the edge.
A knob however, fitted onto this kind of “catch” will put your knuckles in exactly the right position to have the skin taken off them by the door frame.
Fit these on Monday, you’ll look like Henry Cooper by Friday. (So…… I’m a boxing dinosaur, I bet none of these useless English lumps that think they can box today, could have sat Clay on his posterior like “our Enry” did that night…… AND Clay was only saved by the bell)!
If you really want knobs you must get catches which are long enough to position your hand far enough away from the doors edge.
Why, what’s wrong with the old one? If it’s original, it was designed for a house of that era, a new one might end up looking a bit incongruous.
I personally wouldn’t have a PVCu exterior door for three reasons. The first is quite important - safety. PVCu doors don’t just latch shut, you have to physically lock them (usually while having to turn the handle in a wrist-breaking manoeuvre).
This is what people do at night, then put the key in the kitchen drawer “for security”.
It’s no problem getting out at 8.45am to take them to school but will you find it, fit it and turn it in the event of a fire? At least leave the key in the door!
The second reason is the threshold. For some reason some plastic doors need a ladder so you can climb over the bottom section, which is just too high.
Only joking, but just check the next time you're walking through one - you'll feel like David Hemery (one for the teenagers).
The third reason appeals to the delicate aesthete hidden within my calloused soul; they don't look great! (Sometimes even builders know when real offence might be given).
So, you’re going to get a wooden one then! Well, unless you pay for a bespoke one, they’re all pretty much the same. The “Cavendish”, the Fortesque”, the “Belvedere”...
Will it be soft or hardwood?
Softwood may well be full of knots so will have to be painted.
Hardwood can be varnished or waxed.
Will it have a glazed area?
It won’t have to comply with the latest window regulations but any glazing lower than 1500mm from the hall floor will have to be safety glass. I’m not sure but I think that discounts those imitation bullseye panes, result there then!
Also make sure its “obscure” (I don’t mean somehow just a bit quirky). This is how glaziers describe glass that will stop the postman seeing you in your jim-jams, when you take Doris her morning cuppa upstairs at 7.22am.
(We don’t know why it’s called furniture! Maybe chippies got fed up of not knowing where to look and hearing that Sid James laugh, when discussing knockers and knobs with the lady of the house).
Do yourself (and the postman) a favour and make sure the letterbox is big enough to get the newspaper through.
Locks have to be considered.
You need it to latch by itself (the “Yale” type lock) and you also need a separate good quality mortice deadlock (it’s cut and fitted into the edge of the door and needs a key to lock and unlock it. There’s usually no handle.
There are also hinge bolts which are “invisible” steel studs set next to each hinge, they are supposed to stop the door being levered off its hinges by bad lads.
What self respecting criminal is going to risk doing that, when he can just send his nipper through the cat flap?
If you live in a flat with an internal corridor outside, make sure the door is still exterior quality. This refers to the thickness particularly.
The frame will be designed to take a 44mm thick exterior door (not a 36mm interior one). Also the extra security provided by the thicker door is probably more relevant in this situation.
It might be worth a call to your insurance company at this point. Don’t they give reductions for the right type of 5 lever security locks?
The joiner will want to know exactly how much furniture you want.
There’s the “Yale”, the deadlock, the letterbox, the house numbers, the spy hole, the means of pulling it closed from the outside.
Front doors don’t usually have handles, so is there to be a big central knob, or a puller around the Yale lock etc. Or are you going to just stick your hand through the letter box?
There’s the knocker or the bell and inside a security chain or sliding bolts. He will want to know if it’s glazed and how much glass there is.
The only thing he should insist on, are the 3 100mm hinges.
Do you want paint or varnish?
Who will be slapping it on or you?
Either way, the door must be left ajar to dry overnight and all of next day.
What about the gentlemen in stripy jumpers?
Considerations and questions when the carpenter makes his quotation visit.
Who buys the furniture?
He can’t be expected to plough through all the design and material types and colour combinations for you. You must also make sure he knows exactly where on the door you want each bit to go.
Who chooses the door?
But he must tell you the door size to get. Who will collect it from the store? Who will dispose of the old one?
What about any glass?
If any glass has to be bought separately from the door, he must measure for it and this must be done in the door shop a few days before he fits it.
It’s no use ordering it when he comes to fit the door, it could take 3 days to arrive. The postman might have died of shock by then! But you must go to the glaziers to decide on glass patterns etc. Who will collect the glass when it’s ready?
Where will he be cutting the new door?
Will he try and clear up the shavings when he leaves? Most of these will be in your neighbours garden by this time.
Who is going to do the painting?
A carpenter may not be prepared to. He might be persuaded to leave it primed though.
A-Z of Job Pricing