Average Labour Cost/Price to Build a Garage





To clarify the following prices it is recommended that you read the article in the INFORMATION box below the PRICES…


(These prices are based on a tradesman’s rate of £150.00 per day and a labourer if required at £100.00 per day. This includes the cost of buying and collecting any materials, dumping any waste if necessary and any incidental materials they will need. The minimum price will usually be for a half day)



How Much Does It Cost to Build a Garage?
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cost to build a garage



Job 1
To buy and construct a prefabricated concrete garage with an asbestolux
sloping roof, on a new concrete slab, will take two blokes about a week
£4200.00


Job 2
To build a “facing brick” garage with a flat roof and up and over door.
This will take two blokes about 10 days…
£4500.00


Job 3
To build the above with a pitched interlocking tile roof… £5300.00


Job 4
To build a lovely stock brick garage with a pitched plain tile (smaller tiles)
roof and hinged doors…
£7500.00







For your must-see guide to Tradesmen's Rates please click on the map…

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A Price Guide and Information Sheet on Building a Garage


General Garage Building Information


information
We can’t give you quotes for everything we have covered in the article which follows these prices. We can give a few guidelines though. These exclude moving existing drains, building soakaways etc and taking services and driveways to the new work. They also exclude all professional outgoings, (planning etc.).

They
include all foundations, concrete floor slab and walls relevant to constructing a simple single garage, with no attempt to incorporate any stuff that will help convert it in the future.Lets just go through the permutations.

Types of Garages

Attached Garage (to the house) or detached, or in extreme cases, integral!
Single, double or even larger.
Exposed brick, rendered brick / block, prefabricated concrete, wood or stone.
Flat or pitched roof.
Up and over or hinged door.
Second (rear) door and windows also.
Integral workshop / pit / hobby / storage / cloakroom / office area.
Heated? You can even include the boiler, hot water cylinder and solar panels.
Constructed to “dwelling” standard so it can be converted at a later date.

There might even be space for the car!

If you want a garage, it’s going to cost you a few thousand quid, then you might need a new driveway on top so to speak, so think about getting it right first time. It’s always cheaper than having the builders back in a year to change the blessed thing.

Do you need
planning permission? Very likely yes but that depends on your locality, different areas have their own views. Check before you go ahead.

Does the work have to be overseen by a
Buildings Regulations Inspector? These don’t have to be employed by the local council anymore. Independent chappies are now emerging who are a lot more user friendly than some of the local authority “jobsworth” officers, we have dealt with in the past.


So….Lets go through the list at the top and consider the options.

Attached Garage (to the house) or detached, or in extreme cases integral!


If the garage is not prefabricated, attached to the house is a good idea, it’s the cheapest option as only three walls have to be built and you can have an internal door to the house. There may be existing drains, manholes and drain pipes to deal with though. These may not be important if you just want a space for the car, as they can be built around / left where they are. If you want an office included though, you may not want to be sitting over a manhole cover!

Detached Garage

is going to be more expensive and you will most probably have to take electricity (all the way) to it. You may also have to take water and drainage to it if you want more than just a garage. It may also need a soakaway for the rainwater.

Creating a garage
in the house is undertaken now and again but only in extreme situations where you just can’t park anywhere near the house, there is no front garden space to adapt, so to guarantee a parking space you literally have to park in the dining room.

This will definitely need planning and building regs. consent.

Here’s the legal info. on parking and your driveway.

You have no legal right to expect to be able to park outside your own house.

There is no legal recourse you can take if someone parks across your driveway
and your car is not on your property because you are not being stopped from getting out, only getting in.

It is illegal to park across a
legal driveway if you are preventing a vehicle from leaving the property.

A
legal driveway has to include a “crossover” for any of this to be relevant. A crossover is where the pavement has been altered by or with the local council’s permission usually by replacing it with concrete and a “dropped kerb” onto the road has been created.

If you don’t have a crossover and simply drive over the pavement to park on your property, you are acting illegally and anyone is within their rights to park across you exit route.

Of course if you are 6’5” and an aggressive son of a female dog, other rules may apply!


Single, double or even larger Garages.


Have you noticed cars are getting bigger? Park a new mini next to one from the sixties, you could almost get the latter in the new ones boot. Is a single garage big enough anymore? You wouldn’t be the first to find his new garage, particularly the doorway, just wouldn’t let the car in.


Types of Material for a Garage


Wood… prefabricated concrete… rendered brick / block… brick… stone.

Now they’re in the right order regarding cost, starting with the cheapest. I suppose you get what you pay for here, it’s you pocket and your house. Try to decide before you get quotes though, no builder wants to give you 5 different prices, he will be annoyed with you even before he starts.

Bricks come in three
types. Common bricks are not really meant to be visible, they don’t have a “good” side. Facing bricks have one good side and one common side, one to be visible, one meant to be hidden. Stock bricks have two good sides which usually look much better than a facing brick’s good side. They are made completely differently and cost a lot more.

Flat or pitched (sloping) roof Garage.


Cost is relevant again here but also try to match the roof to the building material. An expensive stock brick garage with a flat roof might be construed as a bit of a let down.
Without a shadow of a doubt, pitched, tiled or slated roofs, leave felted flat ones standing. They look better and take about 4 times longer (60 years) before they start to leak.

Of course if the garage is prefabricated it is likely to come with a pitched “asbestolux” roof. Don’t worry this is not asbestos, it just looks like it.

If you’re going for pitched, try and copy the type of tiles or slates on the house, providing you like
them of course.

Also if you have a pitched roof, you can put a solar panel on it
and you can store all those ridiculous planks of wood (you are never going to use) up in it’s rafters!


Up and over or hinged door to garage.


These can be bought “off the shelf” and come in specific sizes. As far as we know, steel “up and over’s” can’t be specially made to your requirements but wooden, normally hung (side hinged) ones can be, to a certain extent, as long as the hinges and frames can take the weight. Wooden “up and overs” can be made to different sizes as well.

Normal wooden ones can also have glazing incorporated into them.


Second (rear) door and windows also.


If all you want to do is put the car away, what’s the point of other openings? They rot if they’re wood, (we can’t recall ever seeing a PVCu back door in a garage) and they provide an easy entry point for thieves. If you have another use for the garage of course they can be vital.


Integral workshop / pit / hobby / storage / cloakroom / office area.


Do you want a garage, or an annexe you can put the car in? The local planning dept. (and the neighbours) might raise more objections if you get too ambitious. Ideally though, if you are going through all the enquiries and garage building processes, it’s far cheaper to get it right first time. If they will let you build bigger and you have the space, go for it, even if all you do is store stuff you should really be chucking away.

Incorporate a space at the back which could be partitioned off in the future. Give it a door and window, put electricity and water in. Even put a sewer line in if it’s not too expensive. They don’t have to be useable, just ready for whenever you night want to expand a bit.


Heated? You can even include the boiler, hot water cylinder and solar panels.


Plenty of garages have the boiler in them. The only reason the hot water cylinder isn’t usually sited in the garage is the space it takes up and the long way the water has to travel before it reaches the taps. Modern insulation can easily cope with pipes running between garage and house. If it’s all in the garage, it is generally easier to maintain, leaks don’t matter as much and it frees up valuable space in the house.

You can still put a radiator or two in though even if the boiler is in the house. The car starts easier in winter and sad old Derrick can play with his train set in the winter as well!


Constructed to “dwelling” standard so it can be converted at a later date.

Now we are really thinking ahead. If you think you may want to convert the garage into a habitable space in the future, then it’s cheaper to build it properly in the first place than convert it later.

This is all down to insulation. Insulation requirements for dwellings are being revised upwards all the time. In 10 years time no one knows what they will be, so you need to take very good advice. The floor and roof will certainly have to be insulated way beyond normal garage requirements. You should really have the walls built with an insulation filled 100mm cavity and be prepared to add to this internally, as the requirements increase.

Also if you’re building an attached garage that you may want to put a second storey on top of in the future, make sure the foundations are constructed to take the extra weight.

Full details of all this extra work should be kept safely, you will need to prove what you have done.




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