Average Cost/Price to Remove/Cure/Eradicate Dry Rot





To clarify the following prices it is recommended that you read the article in the INFORMATION box below the PRICES…


(These prices are based on a tradesman’s rate of £150.00 per day and a labourer if required at £100.00 per day. This includes the cost of buying and collecting any materials, dumping any waste if necessary and any incidental materials they will need. The minimum price will usually be for a half day)



How Much Does It Cost To Get Rid of Dry Rot?

cost to put up a curtain rail/pole


Our prices are based on normal builder’s day rates. A specialist eradication company, which you really should use, will charge specialist prices. They themselves probably won’t be able to give an accurate quotation because they won’t know the extent of the problem until they begin ripping everything out, so the following is only a guideline.

To remove dry rot from your kitchen floor, everything has to come out. Kitchen units, flooring, supporting timbers, low level plaster, the entire lot. The walls should be treated, the oversite soil cleared if necessary, new treated
floor timbers returned, ventilation increased, the walls re plastered, a new floor covering laid and a new kitchen fitted.

There MIGHT be change from £10,000!






For your must-see guide to Tradesmen's Rates please click on the map…

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A Price Guide and Information Sheet on Dry Rot



information
“Serpula Lacrymans” is about the nearest to an alien life form that we householders are likely to find. It slowly creeps through several dark and silent manifestations. It is a very secretive organism, favouring dark, damp, stagnant conditions to develop until its horrible “fruiting body” finally emerges. All this then needs to do is throb a bit to leave us reaching frantically for our transporters in a desperate effort to be “beamed up” out of there!

The following description of dry rot’s development: it sounds like a horrible curse conjured up by some Victorian bible thumping evangelist to inflict on his flock after a bout of serious sinning.

“The wood shrinks, darkens and cracks in a 'cuboidal manner (typical 'brown' rot damage). A silky grey to mushroom coloured skin, frequently tinged with patches of lilac and yellow colouration, develops under less humid conditions. This 'skin' can be peeled like a mushroom. White fluffy cotton wool-like mycelium develops under humid conditions: 'teardrops' may develop on the growth. Strands develop in the mycelium; these are brittle when dry, and crack on bending. The fruiting body, a soft fleshy pancake or bracket with an orange ochre surface with wide pores will develop. Rust red coloured spore dust, frequently seen around fruiting bodies, develops. Active decay produces a musty, damp odour”.

Yup, that just about covers it...and dry rot!

You need to know here that “dry” rot actually needs water to thrive, that it physically eats your wood, that it can travel across and through materials other than wood and that, even when supposedly eradicated, given the right conditions it can remain dormant for up to ten years.

So, with all this beastliness festering under your floorboards, what you don’t want is a bunch of amateurs trying to sort it out. Do your homework. Be certain the mob you choose know exactly what they are doing.

The proper process should include all of the following, with particular attention to the
first process. Once again, all the following should be “lifted” from the site by a specialist eradication company. We’re “all-rounders” here. We know when we’re beaten!


1. Locate and rectify the source of water causing and maintaining the rot.

2. Promote and maintain rapid drying conditions.

3. Remove infected wood: the removal of the food source will stop the spread of growth relatively quickly.

4. Reinstate using pre-treated timber (double vacuum / pressure impregnated as appropriate), or use inert materials such as concrete, steel, etc. Consideration should also be given to the use of preservatives for steeping joist ends prior to reinstatement.

5. Employ spatial and physical isolation: for example, reinstate timbers using joist hangers and joinery wrap. These deny the fungus a potential food source and they also prevent timbers from becoming wet.

6. Apply fungicidal renderings and paints: these effectively form chemical barriers. They are based on the use of zinc oxychloride (ZOC).

7. Sterilise any masonry: this involves the application of a special water based fungicide.

One last point, the company that eradicates the rot should also replace the timbers and complete the job. That way there can be no “split responsibility” issues, if problems arise.




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